The villages of the plain around Buenos Aires are visited for three things: a long lunch, an unhurried walk, and a look at how rural life grew up around a railway station. They are small, walkable and busiest at weekends. The hard part is not what to do there but how to get in and out.
Which villages, and what each offers
- San Antonio de Areco. A small town rather than a village. Gaucho tradition, silversmiths’ workshops, old country bars called pulperías, and museums. The Día de la Tradición festival is held in November. Good for an overnight stay.
- Carlos Keen. In the Luján district, built around an old station. People come for lunch. It combines with a visit to the basilica in Luján.
- Tomás Jofré. In the Mercedes district. A few streets and many country restaurants serving set menus of several courses.
- Uribelarrea. In the Cañuelas district. Cheese, cured meats and craft beer around a village square.
- Capilla del Señor. The main town of Exaltación de la Cruz, with a historic centre to walk around.
When to go
Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays are when everything is open, and also when it is busiest. At Sunday lunchtime restaurants fill up, so book a table. On weekdays the villages are quiet, but many places are closed. Confirm opening days with the restaurant or museum you want to visit.
How to get there
- Bus. Services run from Buenos Aires to Areco, Luján, Mercedes and Cañuelas. From those towns you continue to the small villages by remis, a local booked taxi. It works, but arrange the return in advance: a car is not always available in the afternoon.
- Hire car. The most common choice, and it lets you link two villages in a day. Somebody has to drive back after lunch, and roads into the city are heavy on Sunday afternoon.
- Organised tour. Mainly offered for Areco, with a fixed schedule and route.
- Private transfer. The driver takes you, waits and brings you back, stopping where you like. It makes sense for a group that wants wine with lunch and no worry about the drive home, for families with older relatives or children, and for combining two villages. For one person going to Areco, the bus is a reasonable and lower-cost choice.
Some access roads are unpaved and become difficult after rain. Ask the place you are visiting.
Planning the day
Pick one village as the centre of the day and, if time allows, add another on the same road. Book lunch and tell us when you want to return. A minivan suits a larger group. If you would rather keep the vehicle all day with no fixed timing, see driver by the hour. More ideas are in the guide to weekend getaways.